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Swell arrives at an angle

On the sand, always head-on

Shallow water slows the wave

Ten meters down, it's still racing

At fifty centimeters, it crawls

Coming in at an angle, one end touches bottom first

That side brakes, the other keeps going, and the crest pivots until it comes in head-on

Except near a headland: there, waves bend toward the point and hit harder

That's what makes the good surf spots

Whatever the coast, a wave's last move is to turn toward you